Mozambique

[Doris110]

Hi All

We went on a short camping trip to Ponta d'Ouro in November last year. Had a great time and I was wondering if anyone has recommendations for campsites further up the coast. We plan on going every year if possible.
Thanks
Athol

[Geobloke]

Hi All

We went on a short camping trip to Ponta d'Ouro in November last year. Had a great time and I was wondering if anyone has recommendations for campsites further up the coast. We plan on going every year if possible.
Thanks
Athol

Hello Athol, sounds like aninteresting trip, do you have any pictures of your trip? Would love to see!

[El Stiemo]

I can reccommend the diving school in Nacala, Russel's camp in Pemba and the campsite in Pangane (north of Pemba on the road to Mocimboa de Praia, Tanzania border).

Do not know Moz further south than Quelimane, sorry.

Pics, please!

[Marc Lurie]

Hi Athol,

I know that coastline very well indeed, all the way from the SA border to the Tanzanian border. It's the second longest coastline in continental Africa after Somalia.

There are plenty of good places to go, but I prefer to be as far north as possible so as to get away from other SA tourists. :o Personally, I absolutely HATE most South African tourists in Moz because:
:Rant:
a) They're usually in a laager in the campsite (4 or 5 FORBYFOR's, generators, quad bikes, klippies 'n coke, etc.) with no regard to other people's privacy, peace and quiet, etc.
b) They are EXTREMELY insensitive and often abusive towards the locals.
c) They usually bring everything with them (fuel, food, booze, charcoal) and spend very little money in Mozambique. They even pay for their accomodation in SA, so Moz sees no benefit from teir tourism. They don't even use local restaurants or buy local beer.
d) They're the type of people who screwed up the Sodwana area, but now want to be in a place where they are not restricted from driving all over the dunes, screwing up reefs, bottom fishing etc. :eek:

It's so unfortunate that I keep bumping into these morons, but I have learned how to avoid them. Here's a tip: Read "Getaway" Magazine, and stay away from wherever they recommend. It used to be a mag about places to "Getaway" from it all. It's become a mag about how to "Getaway" to it all. ;)
:Rant:

Sorry, I've been on a rant and not actually answered your OP.

1) How long do you have next time you go, and how much driving can you handle? As I said, Moz is a BIG country and driving times can be very long. For eg. it is a 4-5 day drive from South to North (if you get your timing right at the Zambezi ferry), driving 10 to 12 hours a day.

2) What sort of campsites are you looking for? Well established with chalets, restaurant etc, or just simple ablution areas and no facilities? How self-sufficient are you regarding water, food, fuel, beer?

3) What's your main interests? eg. Diving, fishing, snorkling, interacting with locals, GREAT food, peace and quiet, swimming beaches, wildlife, etc.?

4) Você fala o português?

5) Can I come with you?

Regards,
Marc

[El Stiemo]

[quote=hakuna matata

a) They're usually in a laager in the campsite (4 or 5 FORBYFOR's, generators, quad bikes, klippies 'n coke, etc.) with no regard to other people's privacy, peace and quiet, etc.
b) They are EXTREMELY insensitive and often abusive towards the locals.
c) They usually bring everything with them (fuel, food, booze, charcoal) and spend very little money in Mozambique. They even pay for their accomodation in SA, so Moz sees no benefit from teir tourism. They don't even use local restaurants or buy local beer.
d) They're the type of people who screwed up the Sodwana area, but now want to be in a place where they are not restricted from driving all over the dunes, screwing up reefs, bottom fishing etc. :eek:

Here's a tip: Read "Getaway" Magazine, and stay away from wherever they recommend.


[/quote]

Yes Marc, it is unfortunately like that. Saw that in Angola again now as well: People were not very friendly whilst they were thinking that we were South African. As soon as they realised that we're from Nam, the faces sport a smile... Makes you think.

Kaokoveld and the Desert Elephants are not the same ever since Getaway ran a feature about this area.


Athol:

I wanna come along!

[Marc Lurie]

I can reccommend the diving school in Nacala, Russel's camp in Pemba and the campsite in Pangane (north of Pemba on the road to Mocimboa de Praia, Tanzania border).

Do not know Moz further south than Quelimane, sorry.

Pics, please!

I heartily agree with Frank about Pangane: quiet, great beach, short hop accross to the island, lovely area, NO YOBS IN FORBYFOR'S, good fish and seafood.

I wasn't too mad about Russel's Camp in Pemba, but that's only because I was camping on the bay with the Holgate expedition where we lived very rustically, right on the beach near the mangroves - PARADISE!!! I wouldn't do that alone though, there are serious security issues involved, so Russels is a good bet.

Marc

[El Stiemo]

What I love most about Pangane is the fact that you get your personal camp assistant(s), who are either sons of the owner or kids from the village. They do your washing up and bring you fresh coconuts which you then proceed to decapitate and spike with the alc of choice (in our case, vodka)... I am not actually a lazy person, but that is pure luxury. Gift at the end of your stay or a little payment does it.

You need to be careful about morning or late night walks along the beach at low tide though, as that is the locals toilet...:eek:

[Marc Lurie]

Yes Marc, it is unfortunately like that. Saw that in Angola again now as well: People were not very friendly whilst they were thinking that we were South African. As soon as they realised that we're from Nam, the faces sport a smile... Makes you think.

Yup, I get the same reaction a lot in southern Moz and Botswana. As soon as they see the GP plates they make assumptions about what sort of people we are. Any chance of getting Nam reg plates and papers? :D

It's such a pity that we get tarred with the same brush as the arrogant #$@%'s .

Marc

[El Stiemo]

Sure, a set of plates and a disc you can get for ZAR 200, but if you want LEGAL papers then it's going to be a bit more...

[Doris110]

Thanks Marc and El for the suggestions. I couldn't agree more about the comments re other SA "tourists"! Amazing how some South Africans seem to think they are so superior to the rest of Africa. Luckily for us we had the Ponto campsite to ourselves most of the time. Bliss!

The trip last year was sort of an intro to 4x4 camping and as such wasn't very hardcore at all. Ponto is too civilised I think! I would personally love to explore further north but the group we went with (they go every year) don't all have 4x4's so it would be a bit difficult. Having said that there's no reason why we couldn't organise something.:D

To answer your questions Marc:
1. We're quite flexible, I would like to go for at least 10 days to 2 weeks. We were thinking about November again, what's the best time weather-wise? Driving's not a problem, that's why we bought Doris after all!

2. I would like to think we could rough it with the best, but we're pretty new to this so who knows? Doris is reasonably well kitted out (long range tank, water tank, roofrack etc.) but we don't have a fridge yet. Is it really necessary or just a nice-to-have?

3. Pretty much everything you mentioned. I'm hoping to get my dive card this year, it's something I've always wanted to do.

4. Unfortunately not. My Portuguese vocab is about 5 words!

5. Anytime! It would be great to do a trip like this with experienced people. You too El!

I'll try and post some pictures this weekend.
Cheers
Athol

[El Stiemo]

Thanks Marc and El for the suggestions. but we don't have a fridge yet. Is it really necessary or just a nice-to-have?


Athol

Hi Athol,

thanks for that, please note that you are welcome to contact me anytime when you're going up to Nam, is always great to meet up and show people some insider spots.

As far as your fridge goes: For me the Engel is essential, because

The missus hates warm Savanna

The missus hates warm water and juice

I hate warm beer

I hate vrot meat

I hate melted butter and cheese for my breakfast

I love freezing fish

Namibia is too warm for cool boxes over a couple of days, for an afternoon they are fine, for a weekend they are not.

In short, one of the best camping purchases I have ever made. They are not cheap, but if looked after properly will last many years, longer than your house fridge. From personal experience, I can reccommend Engel and National Luna.

For long trips I use two fridges, one for the meat and fish (freezer) and one for the drinks so the freezer isn't opened so often - fish frozen solid after 24 hours in the freezer.

Just my two cents worth.

Cheers Frank

[SPLITPIN]

Good Campsite at Xai Xai

Another good one at Nelsons Bay - Morungulo

Another campsite at Vilanculo

Another at Rio Savan north of Beira

ENJOY IT IS A GREAT COAST LINE

SPLITPIN

[Marc Lurie]

Hi Athol,

There are many places in Mozambique that are accesible without 4 wheel drive most of the year. In Southern Mozambique you can easily get to Xai-Xai, Bilene, Vilancoulos, Inhasorro, etc.

November is not a bad time of year to go. It's usually before the rain starts, and isn't too hot yet.

You were very lucky that Ponta was relatively empty because it can resemble the parking lot at Eastgate on the last Saturday of the month. :eek:

When we go to Moz for holiday purposes, we tend to stay in a mixture of campsites, local hotels or lodges, friends houses, and chalets at campsites, depending on what's available. We tend to not park in a single place for more than a few days, and chalets are a lot less schlep than using tents. It's not a good idea to "rough camp" in Mozambique, as there are serious security issues when you're not in a formal campsite.

We've learned that almost every consumeable that you need is available in Moz, but it's often difficult to find. A fridge is indispensible. We take:

1) First aid kit
2) Fire extinguisher
3) Roof tent and bedding (usually only a light woven cotton cover and one cotton sheet)
4) Bottled water. We take one or two cases of 1.5l Valpre bottles. Water is available in Moz, but is scarce.
5) Several 500ml packs of Ultramel milk for coffee and brekkie.
6) A box or two of Pasta. (Rice is available almost anywhere in Moz, but good Pasta is unavailable)
7) Tea and coffee (only cheap Ricoffee available in shops)
8) And the usual sort of camping stuff...

I always take a can or two of coconut milk for fish curries :)

You can always find tomatoes, onions, cabbage, rice, olive oil, vinegar, etc. in town markets. Bread is always available, but usually only in very heavy, slightly sweet portuguese buns. Buy fish off the fishermen when they come in in the afternoons or mornings. Forget about decent beef. You can get good prego's in most towns if you really need meat. I hope you like garlic...

We never take charcoal from SA. Excellent charcoal is available alongside the roads. Look for people standing around with large round bags with grass stuffed in the top. The bags are about 500mm diameter and about 1.4m high. The word for chacoal is "carvao" pronounced kar-VOW (kar as in curry, vow as in wedding vow). The local charcoal makes really nice coals. It costs anywhere between R25 to R90 a bag (about 15kg I guess) depending on where you are in Moz.

I strongly believe that it is important to support the local economy of any country I visit, so I always try to buy as much of my requirements inside the country.

If we're staying somehwere near a restaurant/s we'll usually support the restaurant at least a few times. When I say "restaurant" I don't necessarily mean a restaurant in the SA sense of the word. Often, a Moz restaurant will be frequented by locals, will cook outdoors on coal fires, will have a few unmatched tables and chairs, there is often no menu, and they might not speak any english. The food is generally excellent, but simple. Chicken and chips, or grilled fish, rice etc.

If there is a clean pastellaria nearby we'll pop in there for breakfast. A good shop will do a range of nice pastries and tarts, with excellent coffee (Portuguese style cortados or espresso).


Marc

[SPLITPIN]

We never take charcoal from SA. Excellent charcoal is available alongside the roads. Look for people standing around with large round bags with grass stuffed in the top. The bags are about 500mm diameter and about 1.4m high. The word for chacoal is "carvao" pronounced kar-VOW (kar as in curry, vow as in wedding vow). The local charcoal makes really nice coals. It costs anywhere between R25 to R90 a bag (about 15kg I guess) depending on where you are in Moz.

I strongly believe that it is important to support the local economy of any country I visit, so I always try to buy as much of my requirements inside the country.



Hmmmm yes one always wants to support local deforestation efforts;) ;) I might also recommend a little bush meat oh and the local herb is apparently not bad either - if you partake :D :D