Engines for Lew153

[landymaniac]

second hand lm120 hmmmmmmmm paccoccata nahseb:eek:

Kumho? like Hankook? if they are what i am thinking better to drive on bare rims. you would have more grip:D

you can find cheap tyres at blitz or else try to find eco daytona. they are vey good on road and off road but don't have a long life. they last approx 3years. price lm40 each :rolleyes:

[cil111]

U want power man????

just throw in a V8 xbin and u can get all the power that u need i can assure you :p

[theBaptist]

seems he wants everything his SIII doesnt have :D

dont know the guy but from his posts i cannot figure out why he bought the thing ! :rolleyes:

[cil111]

yeah got that impression myself JP


naqra advice to LEW153... you can do everything to your series 3.. most prob you can even make it go to the moon in some form or another... one factor.. money..

mela nothing wrong in upgrading etc but remember one thing... you are spending money on a series and if you eventually come to sell it you will never get your money back... never.. many people can tell you that because that is what happened to them... seems to me that u will be better off in selling what you have and getting a coil sprung model, because spending and spending on a series will never get u a 90/110.

I myself was seriously thinking of converting a lightweight i had to coils and roll cage and V8 engine.... then i had found a coiled lightweight for Lm 1,000... which was less than i sold my Lightweight in fact... pity i did not get that vehicle ghax veru helwa kienet imma it got sold by the time i had the money for it...

if you are happy spending money on a series then go ahead and good luck... as long as you would know that ultimately it will be a bottomless pit...

having said that i myself love coiled series vehicles with powerful engines :D .. but i usually buy them after they have been converted and thus they will be cheap :D :D

[olo]

as others have said, upgrading aint worth it if u goin to sell it, unless u plan on keeping the vechile till u die/it dies.

at max. i'd just install a PAS as its a good selling factor i guess. however i wouldn't touch the rest.

as regards to reiny, thanks to your explanantion i just figured out why the beige 110 (ta david) is always kept at high revs in the competitions. didn't know they were so cr*p as regards to torque.

another option instead of the v8 maybe is the 2.8 tdi 300 thats in brazil, i heard they're beasts not engine :D

[landymaniac]

i would fit 2.5TD maximum. Tdi is too expensive and nissan will be a waste. The bonnets has got their landy like that with nissan 6cylinder and series gearbox. they're always changing shafts and clutches and the engine is always revved. If you make a range 4 speed gearbox you will end up without power.

In my opinion if the engine is still good leave it there till it explodes:D but if you're looking for power.........I think tdi or v8 would satisfy you and you have to change the whole structure of mountings/prop shafts ec etc.

issa if your landy costs lm1000+1200 engine and gearbox+lm500 diffs and lm200 Pas

total: lm 3000 excluding fitting

lm4000 or 3500 you would buy an old 110

Taghmilx bhali ghax bil kanna tibqa. jien bhalek kont ta had a seta jfemni u kolox gdid bdejt nixtri u nzarma w nibdel. ic chassis biss baqali "originali" il bqija kolox bidillt. Imma jien zammejt l antika u kollox gdid kemm jista jkun li xorta tefatni al sormi ahseb w ara b tdi etc etc fejn se tispicca:rolleyes:

i think before you make these modifications you have to ask yourself one big qusetion.................are you going to keep the land rover for ever??? if yes it would be a nice modification;) if no you need some therapy hahahaa:D
senza offiza.

[dborg01]

Hello Lew153,
I wouldn't dare adding much to what everyone said here! Basically everyone sings the same song of not upgrading a Series.
I can tell you that it's a nice thing to do and will give you loads of experience but don't do it with profit in mind. If you plan to sell it in the future not even an auction in 2080 will get you the money you spent:D If you plan to keep it, the value would in reality be around 3000 to 5000 for a decent upgrade but the gutless insurance companies in Malta will register and value it according to the age it came out of the factory......and that will be LM0 (no I did not forget any figures there)....been there myself and mine's not a Series!!
You might not care now about this insurance thing but if you use it every day after doing a hell of a job you wouldn't want some crap head to make it vanish for you.......and if it happens you would pretend some of your cash to come back from the insurance!!

One thing is that you did quite the right thing by asking all these questions, the answers here are very informative and helpful - some of these guys have been behind the Land Rover scene for a long time and some tried all sorts of mods!!

With regards to a Japanese engine Reiny said it very well that such a Nissan doesn't have low-down torque. Which means that unless you rev it up it will not have power and will simply stall!!
As to Jap engines, they are very good and very reliable especially Toyota but a good engine would still cost as much as a Rover 200/300 TDi and the mods would be far more challenging to have it in place and running! The only draw back with Rover is that originally the biggest you can get is a 2.5l, or as Olo said the Brazilian modified 300 TDi which comes at 2.8l....unless you opt for a TDV6 2.7l which is the latest diesel engine from being fitted to Land Rovers (used on the LR3).

One last thing though is that if you wanna go down the road of mods prepare
1) Money...
2) time...
3) patience...
4) a place to work in for a very long time...
5) kuruna tar-ruzarju ghal qabel torqod........................ghax id-dagha li tidghi biex tillesti trid tpatti ghalih b'xi haga:D

Daniel

[cil111]

2.5l, or as Olo said the Brazilian modified 300 TDi which comes at 2.8l....unless you opt for a TDV6 2.7l which is the latest diesel engine from being fitted to Land Rovers (used on the LR3).






am i understanding you correctly jew??? jew fhimt hazin jien


jekk fhimt tajjeb guys, get real ta!!!!!! have u any idea how much these engines cost?????

and to put on a series????? mela u high on coca cola or something l ahwa....

the price of a 2.8l is around the 6500GBP ta... imagine the price for the a TDV6 kollha ecu's u l imbarazz kollha tad dinja...


if you want some decent power go for a 2.5td, will fit straight to everything and not cost u much...

if you want there is one of these engines for sale at the awdc forum in sell/ buy section so that u can get an idea of the price....

[olo]

heq cil, i said wot delivers power not wots cost effective :p

[buzz]

Very true guys,imagine putting these modern engines into a seriesIII, the engine costs more than the vehicle itself.

Dborg has been looking for an engine himself and is still undecided on whether to spend LM800 or LM400 ahseb u ara thousands!!,..... :D

Pero fikom farsa...... :jester2: :stupid:

[cil111]

heq cil, i said wot delivers power not wots cost effective :p

hmm u iwa veru it is powerful imma still Olo man... u know how much that thing costs... nice engine true... imma with that money i get a 4.6 Rover V8 and still have enough Change to run it for 2 years.... now that is what i call cost effective and poweful :) :)

mela u high on coca cola or something l ahwa....

P.S. my Post was edited by MR Buzz :p and it was not meant to be Coca Cola.. Not such a wimp jien ( i hope that this will not be edited as well hehe) I guess that you sort of got the gist of what i was trying to hint at :p :p

[Reiny]

As most of you guys said, it normally boils down to one thing - MONEY.

If I had the choice, I would dump my 300 (even though I love it to bits) and fit a V8, though the Brazilian derivative of the 300 is something I'd love to have too.

Olo, I cannot say that the Nissan is crap when it comes to torque, it just isn't suitable for a land rover, that's all. The only reason why I hate fitting different engines is a simple one really. Manufacturers spend loads of money in research and development and come up with the best combination they can. Enthusiasts ditch all that research away and fit whatever tickles their fancy. I'm sure that the Nissan 2.8 litre six cylinder is perfect when used in the vehicle for which it was originally designed.

[olo]

yea cil, but i didn't mention how much it costs, i said its powerfull thats all

[cil111]

u mentioned cost effective before allura i gave u an engine that is one of the most powerful fitted to a land rover and cost reasonable money...


still a 4.6 V8 is way more powerful than the brazilian 300... it consumes much more veru imma still much more powerful.... oh if i could afford the bloody fuel...

[tdi200]

:argue: Guys, poor lew, the more you discuss the more he gets mixed up :linehop: he is probably thinking of the next thing to change in that series!

Grem :shakehead

[dborg01]

This post is more like who's gonna mention the most powerful engine which was ever fitted to a landy!!:D

The thing is LEW153 hasn't said anything about any of our comments so we keep on trying to convince him to do what we WILL NEVER do unless we win the SUPER 5 alone:rolleyes:

LEW153.....before we were talking theory ...... now you have real and living proof that some of the things you wanna do are not even worth on a Defender let alone a Series............

So, I stick to my guns............just don't do it for PROFIT or to be practical........what you want will deliver none of those 2..................but it WILL deliver loads of landy power, experience, knowledge, sins, and bills :p
....................and broken parts too:D


Babaj
Daniel

[landymaniac]

olo david's lkand rover is not a 110:eek: it was a srs2 now better called a hybrid or balbuljata:p . As we always say it is not only the vehicle that counts but also the navigator/driver. he came first in the competition remeber that!

[LEW153]

Good Lord, I'm afraid to meet you mates, ara kif taqbzu fuqi biex ma nibdilx il magna :) Anyway, thanks for all these advices.


The Nissan RD28 gives out 100BHP (66kw) and a max of 170nm, though I haven't found at what RPM.

Can someone guide me as to what bhp and most importantly nm torque does a 2.5 NA have? I was told it's a straight swap and can fit to a Series III gearbox, no problem. How much would it cost to buy a 2.5 NA?

Is it normal for a 2.3D to have to put it down to third while in a not so steep hill as the one in rahal gdid (in front of moskea)? If I try to move of on 2nd gear on a slight slop the engine stalls.

Could it be the air cleaner and diesel filter? I will try to change them soon maybe it's them the cause.

Thanks once again.

[LEW153]

Justy found some specs...


Rover 2.3D - 140NM torque @ 1800rpm, 67BHP
Rover 2.5D - 155NM torque @ 1800rpm, 67BHP
Rover 2.5TD- 203.7NM torque @ 1800rpm, 86BHP
Nissan 2.8D - 170NM torque @ ??, 100BHP

I'm suspecting there's something wrong with the engine. What could be the factors that lead to a loss of power? (air cleaner, diesel filter?)

I can assure you that it's not a matter of me wanting a defender to be more comfortable, it's just that i can't understand why I can't move off from stand still if there is a small slope. My first vehicle was a Mercedes Benz 406D truck, having a double wheel axle at the back and a 15ft platform, with no power steering. It had loads of pulling power and was powered by a Perkins 4203 3.3L. I could quite easily take off on second gear, with a 32ft trailer attached to it, carrying a boat on it.


I try and clean the airflow and fuel system over the weekend.

In the mean time, any tips or advice is greatly appreciated.

[olo]

maybe cylinders are loosing "pressure" due to a gaskit or so?

[LEW153]

Hi Ed,

Don't know, as if pistons are loosing compression I would expect the engine to take quite a good number of turns to start. Diesel detonates solely with the highly compressed mixture, which heats up due to the compression.
Thanks for the advice mate.

[olo]

good point, didn't think bout that.

dunno wot else, guess it would be best to wait for reiny, grem and co. to come

[theBaptist]

isma minni man startje dik il mugna, aqla t-tap tal 'oil filler' u ohrog id dipstick min posta u warreba ....... check both places you 'opened' for smoke coming out.

is your engine smoking from oil filler and/or dipstick tube ?? if yes ghandek compression ghajjiena - go do a compression test to confirm.

if your visual test is negative serreh naqa rosok u l-unike problema li ghandek hu li m'ghandekx idea how hard it is for a 30yr old 2.25 to pull a 2-ton pile of metal :D

[theBaptist]

Could it be the air cleaner and diesel filter? I will try to change them soon maybe it's them the cause.




there is no air filter to change pajs ... :rolleyes:

dismantle the whole borma and the bottom piece is like a round army mess-tin,if cleaned well enough tista ssajjar in noodles go fieh ukell .... mela clean the chewing gum muck from this borma and then clean it in petrol (parafin will do but is slower to dissolve the muck) ....... clean the round wire mesh in petrol too, fill the borma with fresh engine oil to the 'holes' level FROM THE SIDE not centre.

issa clean the top latu well ghax ikollu hafna black powdery deposits qisu cumnija and reassemble and re-install - you now have a clean air filter.

NEXT check your elephant's trunk (thick pipe from air filter to engine) for leaks (holes or slits) if it has any replace (Lm13 from Ciapella) and make sure edge connections are tightly fitted.

that should solve your air cleaner. :D


diesel filter is a doddle - bleeding it after ghadni ma bqatx art so i cannot instruct you.


ijjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjsa hejjjjjjjjjjjjj .................

[theBaptist]

Perkins 4203 :rolleyes: tinbotta hajt bieh u ma jhossux :D

[LEW153]

Ok Baptist, thanks for the info. I'll try it over the weekend. By the way, could you send me a couple of pics of your series, to see how it looks like? Email me on clewis@nextgen.net.mt.

By any chance, is you engine original......2.3D or you upgraded it?

Thanks mate.

[LEW153]

quite true.... actually I still have the engine. It wouldn't be a bad idea to rebuild it and fit it on the LR. It has massive bags of torque, though it's noisy.

[theBaptist]

my engine is the actual original li harget biha in 1978 - 2.25 3-main bearing. previous owner says it was re-bored and stripped 8 yrs ago - emnu jekk trid ghax m'ghandeix provi but it runs very sweet and absolutely no smoke from where i explained so compression should be ok.

i can reach 60mph comfortably and nearly 70mph if i push it but then the gearbox complains so i dont do it often. 55mph on level grould is cool enough.

uphill skont - Attard - Zebbug uphill jekk nirranka and no cars in front of me nibqa tiela 4th - Regional round from tal-gas roundabout up the hill towards old tunnel naqa 3rd but thats steeper.

2nd naqla kulliemkien no prob but its not a habit i like.

u can see my landy nahseb in the avatar qisu zrong ahdar :D

[LEW153]

My engine is the same as yours, 2.25 3 main bearings, probably 1978 too. I'll check the smokey thing but I don't think it smokes. Is the smoke clearly visible when it lacks compression or is it just a light trial of smoke?

There's no way I can pull out if I'm in a slight slope, looks like I have no torque in the engine :(

I'll give it a look over the weekend.

Thanks.

[theBaptist]

more smoke more probs i guess .....:)


ghandek msn LEW ? mine is sagemmy3026@hotmail.com - kellimni hemm tomorrow ;)

[olo]

john u got me all worried now! i top out at 75 mph as far as i recall. wots for sure my friends 200 overtakes me very easily even when i floor it. am starting to think i'm not getting full power from the engine. issa ghada intija wahda ad dritt ha kemm intella.

[tdi200]

Lew, if you want the landy to pull like a train, go up hills and take off in 3rd, stick in the 4203 and an overdrive, cheapest solution IMO, but definetly the noisest! I had a friend with a series 3 perkins 4203 top out at 80mph with overdrive, but noise levels were of an unrecorded decibel level! It could pull a house down and with my perky 2.3 i could not keep up on hills, nothing beats the torque on those engines, imma tractor tigi il landy!

Issa do not compare Baptists landy with yours, yours in much heavier due to all the glass and seats.

Get a perkins and ditch the nissan idea if you want cheap torque!

Amazing this tread went from the latest engine to the oldest in a couple of pages!

Grem

[dborg01]

Was this thread supposed to be about tyre make selection?!?:rolleyes:


I would agree with Grem's idea of Perkins and overdrive. The only problem with those engines is that they don't do them anymore but there are so much around that parts might not be that big a problem!!.......if ever you need any:p

And to complement Reiny, Perkins engines were once used officially by Land Rover, so if it's gonna be an issue of originality you need not worry that much.
Rover only used a couple of Perkins units as later they produced their own engine. The only reason why they did not use the Perkins was simply because it would not rev up enough to what their customers wanted. They went on to invest in development of a re-design of a Rover diesel engine!


Sorry to deviate from the topic. ;)

Bye bye

Daniel

[Reiny]

Daniel, I don't know if you aware of the fact that a few Series Ones were powered by a Turner two cylinder diesel engine. Totally gutless but mega rare. There was a gozitan guy who had one and it was so gutless that one fine day, he removed the engine on the gozo ferry and dumped it overboard. Another piece of history consigned to the deep (not to mention the pollution).


Issa LEW153, two things. If the air filter pipe is gone, don't spend so much on an orginal pipe. Ciapella used to sell agricultural pipes cut to size for about Lm2. If you air filter is as filthy as mine used to be, put a small amount of petrol in the "borma" and set it alight. Let all the filth burn off until the fire extinguishes and you can easily scrape the borma clean. A good once-over with a power wash may help too. Don't forget to blast it dry with an airline.

Bleeding the fuel system - dead easy. Look at your diesel injection pump. On the front face you'll find two small nuts (8mm). Undo them, grab hold of the lift pump, you'll find a lever at the bottom of it and start pumping like mad. You should feel some pressure in the lever. If there is no pressure, just flick the starter over (just one click that's all you need) and you should get pressure. Keep pumping until diesel without air flows from those two nuts (the bleed screws). You'll realise that there's no air because you'll have steady stream of diesel which doesn't hiss or splatter. Issa, most probably, the first few pumps will give you that stream of diesel but that's just the fuel that remains in the system between the filter and the injection pump. Keep pumping. Insomma, when you see a clear stream of diesel, tighten the bleed screws by hand and pump a little bit more, then tighten them with your 8mm spanner. Try to start the engine. If it doesn't fire up, start swearing and start all over again.

Don't expect your 2.3 to be perky. Miskina it's an old girl now. I remember dropping down to third in the telgha ta' l-addolorata. The 2.5 would climb the same hill in top gear with relative ease.

[landymaniac]

i would go an set the pump at a diesel specialist LEW check exhaust pipe/silencer and air cleaner. my 2.3 can overtake cars easily on roads and does quite well. cimiterju hill i go up 4th gear if no cars are in front of me but 3rd is lowest. can it be maybe the previous owner of your car used to drive slow???? and the car sort of jammed??? but one thing if you drive other cars and then drive the landy eeeeeeeeeeeee you feel that the truck makes lots of sound and little movement:D . tha's what happens to me when i drive my moms daewoo:(

If you make a perkins 4203 and range rover ballal tad diff you need no ovedrive. you'll reach 80mph the same. but its better to reinforce the chasis because of the weight.

[Reiny]

Oh by the way, you also mentioned fitting a 2.5. Not all 2.5's are 100% straight swaps. The only straight swap is 2.5 coming out of a Sherpa (Freight Rover van). It's exactly the same as the Land Rover unit albeit with two minor differences.

1) The injection pump sits slightly higher (if not lower, i can't remember) than the Land Rover unit, therefore the mountings are in the exact same position as those on the Series III (you'll have to remove the mountings from your 2.3 and bolt them to the 2.5 though).

2) It has an aluminium timing belt cover instead of a cast steel one as is found on the Land Rover unit. Unfortunately these covers aren't interchangeable. Due to this cover, the timing belt housing is not as waterproof as it is on the Land Rover unit but it never gave me any problems and I've waded in almost bonnet deep water with no problems.

If you want to fit a Land Rover unit, you'll have to modify your right hand side chassis leg. The rest is relatively straight forward. You'll have to take the thermostat housing off your 2.3 and fit it onto the 2.5. Or else you may modify your radiator to have an outlet on the left hand side. This is a wiser option as you'll optimise cooling (because the coolant will have to travel the whole width of the radiator).

An accelerator pedal from a 90 will definitely make things better. Apparently, the footwell has to be modified for this though. I had used a different system on mine (I left the Series III pedal in place) and was never satisfied with the setup.

The battery will have to be located beneath the passenger seat (there isn't enough room so you'll have to tear a hole into the box beneath the seat and fit another box to put the battery in it) and the air cleaner will have to be moved forwards to clear the injector pump. Overall, the engine bay will be much cleaner and more accessible than it is with the 2.3 in place.

I would go for a 2.5 if I were you. It's affordable and if you overhaul it, it will last for a hell of a long time. You won't get tyre burning rubber out of it but i think it's excellent for a series.

[theBaptist]

there is probably nothing wrong with his engine at all ........ good service and see after ....

could be many things, 1st thing that comes to mind is binding brakes ...... taqbadx u tbiddel magni umbaghad tara li bqajt fl-istess ilma hehe :D

[dborg01]

It has an aluminium timing belt cover instead of a cast steel one as is found on the Land Rover unit. Unfortunately these covers aren't interchangeable.

Rein, sorry to correct you, but my 2.5 Rover has an aluminium timing belt cover which is completely sealed except for the bottom drain hole which has a wading plug screwed next to it for use when wading!!

[Reiny]

Yes mine had the wading plug too. Is your timing belt cover totally flat or does it have lines embossed on it so to speak?

Olo, I just saw your thread about getting full power out of your 300. I'm kinda worried about mine too. I clearly remember getting 85mph out of it during last year's NOC on the road which runs parrellel to the runway, downhill with a tailwind, however, 200s have thrashed me and I have a really hard time keeping up with Cili's Range Rover auto. I've checked the turbo hoses but they all seem to be fine. I don't know if anything's wrong with it.

[dborg01]

Aw Rein,
Mine is not smooth, it's got ribs (not spare ribs), and it's an aluminium cast - front and back!

With regards to your engine not pulling very well I hear that even a TD have given you a hard time once :p

Olo, whenever you want drop off at my garage and I'll have a peep, but let me know beforehand!

Bye bye
Daniel

[LEW153]

Problem solved...it was my fault. I got used to pull of on second gear on the truck. I am now using 1st gear from start still and I pull off without any problems.


The previous owner had told me that the gearbox has a small part missing, in that if I leave it in 1st or 2nd gear, the gear slips out. 3rd and 4th work fine. Is it a big problem to do? Does the gearbox need to be removed to fix this thingy? If so how can I do such a task?

Thanks for your help Dudes!

[landymaniac]

if something is missing probably it is the retaining spring costrs only about 10cents. if both first and second slips it is probably the spring is not there or asleep :Dyou have to remove the tunnel and on the left u find an L shape flat bar with a bolt about 6mm holding it (i am not sure about the location as i forgot, but it ios some where there). remove that and there is supposed to be a spring 2cm long and a washer:rolleyes: . on the opposite hand there is one similar which act as a retainer for the 3rd/4th gear:rolleyes: :eek: .

If it still slips you probably have the gears edges worn and you need to go to the grocer to buy some straws:D :D :D as you need to dismantle the box.

I am happy with you because you look well after your landy and do the jobs yourself.;)

[LEW153]

Thanks Landymaniac, I'll give it a look tomorrow. I'll try and spend some time to service the air cleaner and replace the fuel filter.

After that, I'll address the steering system as I jacked the LR from the front and one wheel is fidling about 1-2 cm while the other is still stationary. I noticed the play is coming from the swivel joints. Any help in this area would be greatly appreciated as I haven't done any research yet.

Once that's solved, I'll take off each drum and service/replace the wheel bearings. I'm sure that there's one bearing in the rear axle that needs replacement, as when I lifted the LR it had some play. Apart from that I can notice a whine when I'm running free.

As one of you once said, it's a pretty good start in the LR world. Let's face it, overcoming challenging problems is part of the LR affair ;) . Hope to see you all some day or another.

BTW, hope you'll all forgive me for what I did today..... I gave the LR a good washy washy :rolleyes: It's shiny and clean now


Enjoy the weekend mates!

[landymaniac]

if loose is coming from the swivel it may be king pin or bearing. to access the king pin there are two bolts on the to side of the swivel casing(casted piece) and the head of the pin is oval shaped. that costs about lm15 if worn including the pin swivel casing. some people turn it on the other way round(opposite the worn part). When fitting here you need to adjust the shims aout 75c each:D

on the opposite side of the king pin(facing the floor another 2 smaller bolts and smaller oval) there is another small pin and a bearing. bearing is about lm6.

wheel bearing you have two on each wheel on the front axle. on the rear one i forgot(doesn't give me much trouble:yikes: )

to access wheel bearing you have to:
- remove the conical metal cap on the centre of the wheel
- remove circlip/bolt or whatever from the shaft(found under conical cap) and that piece of cotton and remove break drum(unscrew one/two small screws frst)
- remove 6/8 bolts of that round flange and pull out. probably you nee to hammer it to loose
- you will find 2 large nuts and a tab washer. flatten the tab washer so that you can have acces with the box spanner and remove both nuts and washer. (box spanner from mgar about lm5)

- you will the find a thrust washer and a bearing. pull out the hub (round casted metal where there are the studs) and out goes the bearing and thrust washer.

- at the back of the hub there is another bearing. you can acces this by removing the oil sel.)oil seal about lm1.50, repair kit bearings lm20,:smilepc:

- if you remove another 5 bolts you will dismantle also the backplate of the brakes and can remove shaft

- remove king pins and unscrew about 11 small bolts of the swivel oil seal and you can pl out the swivel casing. if you unscrew about 7 other bolts between he fidd dlange and the swivel you will also remve the swivel:Yikes1:

Good luck. It is an esy job. you will start doing that every time you have some free time:Idunno:

os your bank account still fulll of money???????????:flushed: :Tbirds1: bye bye

[joe019]

Reiny, how much does that unit get valued nowadays?? filkas we assemble a dive team and go dive for it !!!



Daniel, I don't know if you aware of the fact that a few Series Ones were powered by a Turner two cylinder diesel engine. Totally gutless but mega rare. There was a gozitan guy who had one and it was so gutless that one fine day, he removed the engine on the gozo ferry and dumped it overboard. Another piece of history consigned to the deep (not to mention the pollution).

[olo]

Yes mine had the wading plug too. Is your timing belt cover totally flat or does it have lines embossed on it so to speak?

Olo, I just saw your thread about getting full power out of your 300. I'm kinda worried about mine too. I clearly remember getting 85mph out of it during last year's NOC on the road which runs parrellel to the runway, downhill with a tailwind, however, 200s have thrashed me and I have a really hard time keeping up with Cili's Range Rover auto. I've checked the turbo hoses but they all seem to be fine. I don't know if anything's wrong with it.
heh ok then i aint on my own then. i was gob smacked when it first happened to me!

tnx dborg, when i'd have a bit of free time i'll sms u or somethin and we'll meet up.

[joe019]

Once that's solved, I'll take off each drum and service/replace the wheel bearings. I'm sure that there's one bearing in the rear axle that needs replacement, as when I lifted the LR it had some play. Apart from that I can notice a whine when I'm running free.


Hi Lew,

I'd suggest you give some priority to these wheel bearings. One of the front wheels had its bearing so totalled that it ended up locking the wheel. luckily the thing happended in front of my garage.

On my series I changed the bearings for 3 wheels.... It is not a difficult task and the landy will be much more better. There is a whole kit available including oil seals etc...

Regards
Joseph

[olo]

innizlu ir rescue divers tal st john al dik il magna? :p after collecting the engine then we run before they notice wot it is and decide to chase us down lol

[LEW153]

Thanks for the great info Landymaniac. I give it a go as soon as I have some free time, hopefully soon.

Thanks all you mates. Hope to meet you all sometime...

[LEW153]

Just managed to get hold of some specs for the Perkins 4203 3.3L engine...

Power 55KW (74BHP) @ 2800rpm
Torque 243Nm @ 1400rpm

No wonder this engine used to pull like hell!

[nighthawk]

Heheh... that torque figure is slightly less than the 300tdi figure of 265Nm. We're talking STANDARD 300tdi here :D

Pretty damn good for the Perkins' age and technology though!

[theBaptist]

depends at what revs you're talking Dennis .... i have no idea of course unless i search but its all a question that is relative to engine speed. if the 300tdi develops that amount of torque at, say, 4000 revs (just shooting figures here), the Perkins will be more impressive :D

[LEW153]

If I'm not mistaken, the TDI 300 gives out 265Nm @ 1800rpm. Quite a good figure too.

[nighthawk]

Yep 1800rpm gives max torque. Clifton seems very up to date on engine info hehehe.