Clutch slave cylinder

[LEW153]

Hi all,

I had in mind to take off the clutch slave cylinder today but unfortunately I didn't manage as it's in an awkward place and apart from that I didn't have a 1/2 inch socket (my sockets are metric).

Anyone can suggest a good shop where to buy a good set of sockets? I'm more concerned about the quality of them rather than the price, as I hate buying cheap, low quality tools. You're better off buying a good set in the first place.

I also check the price of a brand new imitation slave cylinder. It's pretty cheap as it only costs Lm10.

Any hints or tips are more than welcome. Thanks

[tdi300]

clif, dak il clutch gej gholi b'xoghlu.........

For the tools buy Usag, beta or stanly tools ..life time warranty...........

or else ixtri tac-CHING CHUNG CHANG u mela jdejquk trow them away and buy a new set......then u'll get a shiny set too :P

joking apart I found a good brand i think its rolsons. cheap and quite good at least i still got all my sockets and spanners as one whole pice......

[dborg01]

Clif,
If you've got metric then 1/2inch corresponds to 13mm. If you still wanna buy tools I suggest you be practical. Good quality brands are good to buy but only if your living depends on them. I've done many jobs on my landy and my friends' landies (hey not ladies) and previously on an Escort MKI and all I use is a cheap (tal-monti) but decent set of sockets and spanners. Considering the low price spent they did more than they were worth of.....after about 8 years

If your pockets are not veeeeeery deep you'd better save your money for the parts......I don't know what you think but I'd rather buy a cheap set of tools which still have a long lifetime and spend my money on original parts and therefore avoid changing my parts rather more often!!!! :rolleyes:

[buzz]

Clif,
If you've got metric then 1/2inch corresponds to 13mm. If you still wanna buy tools I suggest you be practical. Good quality brands are good to buy but only if your living depends on them. I've done many jobs on my landy and my friends' landies (hey not ladies) and previously on an Escort MKI and all I use is a cheap (tal-monti) but decent set of sockets and spanners. Considering the low price spent they did more than they were worth of.....after about 8 years

If your pockets are not veeeeeery deep you'd better save your money for the parts......I don't know what you think but I'd rather buy a cheap set of tools which still have a long lifetime and spend my money on original parts and therefore avoid changing my parts rather more often!!!! :rolleyes:

Hear hear!

Well said Daniel.
If you need any specialized tools ask a landy friend first.
Rolson do seems a decent make of tool and not too heavily priced either.
My way of thinking is like Daniel says China tools do the job if your living doesn't depend on the tools.

[cil111]

insomma guys i agree and dont agree


on sockets and spanners i spent good money on a decent set because i have managed to get a 13mm spanner into a 15mm countless times.. after buying cheap s$£t i decided to buy decent ones and till now they have lasted the pace and abuse. I have broken about 2 ratchets before i bought a decent one...
now i have a matador one and whilst not cheap it is solid..

when u work with land rovers u need decent tools because the bolts are usually rusted solid plus many are big and you need strength to undo them..

I mean u do not need to buy a hi tech grinder because an Lm 10 one will do the job since u will not use it that much... but spanners and sockets u will use them regularly... and they have a nasty habit of breaking on a sunday which usually leaves me stranded at home...

it all depends on your pockets i guess but for certain tools i usually try and buy the best i can afford.

[landymaniac]

when i buy tools i ask myself :

how often am i going to use this and for what???

I have both cheap tools and expensive tools. I like to buy tools with a well known brand name such as beta/narex//De walt. I give hard time to my tools and beleive me i never service them. The good thing about these tools is that they are heavy duty and if something goes wrong parts are available....fix and back to work.

As to spanners and sockets i have both made in china and beta. Cheap spanners tend to survive with me, sometimes i bend them but they are good. as for sockets cheap ones tend to crack and bend but i still use them. i also have a set of heavy duty impact ones. Moral of the story.....it depends the duties of your tools but i would go for beta and heavy duty impact sockets:D beacause with a series 3 landy sometimes you have to TIFEROCJA BIS SALVAG MAL BOLTS.:p

[Big Sandy]

I also check the price of a brand new imitation slave cylinder. It's pretty cheap as it only costs Lm10.

Any hints or tips are more than welcome. Thanks

Best hint I would give you? :) Get a proper slave cylinder, Lucas preferably. You buy cheapo parts, you get cheapo parts that won't last. There are a lot of crappy brake and clutch parts out there, and they are all to be avoided (after all, it's your life on the line). Nope, stick with the genuine!

Incidentally, I bought a set of Guardsman sockets, Imperial, Metric and (wait for it....) Whitworth when I was sixteen... they were considered cheap at the time, but I still use them, and they have been used on Landies mostly. Thats 26 years of service! They must have been better than was originally thought!

[LEW153]

I bought a 1/2 inch socket and took off the slave cylinder effortlessly. It looks like it's quite a heavy duty socket (Elora I think, bought from CNC technique -Qormi)

Unfortunately now I can't take off the pipe connected to it, as the nut looks a bit roundish, so I took off the whole system (master and slave cylinders) to fit a new pipe and overhaul the master cylinder, now that I'm at it.

Anyone knows where I can buy the copper pipe connecting the slave cylinder to the master cylinder? Preferably I would like to fit some flexible piping, if it's possible, though it has to be some flexible pipe, purposly thought for brakes/clutch systems, as normal plastic piping won't do.

Many thanks for your help...

[tdi300]

insomma guys i agree and dont agree



I mean u do not need to buy a hi tech grinder because an Lm 10 one will do the job since u will not use it that much... but spanners and sockets u will use them regularly... and they have a nasty habit of breaking on a sunday which usually leaves me stranded at home...

it all depends on your pockets i guess but for certain tools i usually try and buy the best i can afford.

I agree Cilli as for the ratchets u are right. As for the grinder is a must to have one......Do not forget to but the discs and have them in a handy place:)

and with powerd tools always take precautions. Do not spend less money on safety devices such as safety glasses, gloves, boots etc....

lud

[dborg01]

I bought a 1/2 inch socket and took off the slave cylinder effortlessly. It looks like it's quite a heavy duty socket (Elora I think, bought from CNC technique -Qormi)

Unfortunately now I can't take off the pipe connected to it, as the nut looks a bit roundish, so I took off the whole system (master and slave cylinders) to fit a new pipe and overhaul the master cylinder, now that I'm at it.

Anyone knows where I can buy the copper pipe connecting the slave cylinder to the master cylinder? Preferably I would like to fit some flexible piping, if it's possible, though it has to be some flexible pipe, purposly thought for brakes/clutch systems, as normal plastic piping won't do.

Many thanks for your help...

Mela my comments to the above .... one by one:
Congrats on your 1/2 inch even though I told you 13mm is the same size. :p Still I wouldn't have gone that way especially on such a small socket :rolleyes: but now I just hope you find many uses.....for maybe 26years or so!!!!!

The nut looks roundish....very strange...... someone must have tightened it up.......But anyway, you can still take it off with a gripper but you will need a new nut and a flaring tool. If you don't wanna change the whole pipe I will suggest a cheap solution which is as good as changing the pipe: Remove the pipe system from both ends, cut the pipe as near as possible to the old nut, go to any autoparts shop and take the pipe with you, buy a new connecting nut, and ask to get the pipe flared with the new nut in. The current pipe should still be good even if it is mild steel and looks rusty on the outside. Remember that it's oil that was running inside and at a high pressure, therefore no chance of any rust inside. But this is your choice.

If you want to change the whole pipe system, why do you want flexibles? Even if they exist they can never be as good as the solid pipe. They will need more frequent replacement and you might have to re-route the pipe since the engine heat might affect the material. Besides that, the end at the slave cylinder will be prone for more damage compared to the solid pipe.

I gave you my suggestions.......and the best one is yet to come........save your money for more important jobs!! If you're going to spend a lot of money were a cheap but affective, practical and safe way could have done the job you're gonna find empty pockets if a larger job crops up suddenly ..... like a clutch failure, or an engine head gasket failure.......or.........:(
Remember it's just routine maintenance on a Series vehicle that you're doing and not a whole rebuild ;)

Good luck!

[LEW153]

Many thanks for your suggestion Dan. I'll follow you advice and do copper pipes again. As regards to the socket..... I had a 13mm socket but it fits slightly loose, hence I bought a 1/2 inch (12.6mm) one. If you try to take of a 1/2 inch nut with a 13mm you can very easily ruin the nut by rounding it's hex edges.

Thanks once again. ;)

[nighthawk]

I beg to differ cliff...
dirt and mud usually makes up for the 0.4mm difference on my landy :D

When things are REALLY tight then yes, it's best to have both metric and imperial

[LEW153]

Here's an update....

I managed to buy the original flexible piping as well as the copper piping. I also bought a master cylinder kit and replaced all oil seals. The piston is now running nice and smooth... :D

Should be all ready fitted and bleeded by tomorrow....if no trouble crops up.

I might see you mates on Sunday. (Sorry didn't know that AWDC doesn't like promoting their events)

[joe019]

especially if you're going to remove the seat box off a series :)

I agree Cilli as for the ratchets u are right. As for the grinder is a must to have one......Do not forget to but the discs and have them in a handy place:)

[LEW153]

Update....Master and slave cylinder fitted and bleeded system with FINA DOT4 oil.

BUT

Gear change is working fine but if I keep the clutch pedal pressed for a long period of time (especially while i'm reversing to park) the clutch is still failing. :(

Today I drove it from Mosta to Naxxar (Off road event), then off to St. Pauls Bay, then back to Mosta and managed to put in all gears, exept when I was parking.

I replaced the slave cylinder and all oil seals in the master cylinder, new pipes, new oil but it's still not 100% and I don't have a clue from what the problem could be. Could it be some fork in the gearbox housing, the one that is being pressed by the slave cylinder?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[olo]

did u check the oil level ? (of the clutch that is). maybe u got another leak? or seals have failed under pressure? dunno wot else it could be, coz if its the fork i'd think it would remain stuck if it bent and wont return back to normal position once clutch is released

[tdi300]

did u check the oil level ? (of the clutch that is). maybe u got another leak? or seals have failed under pressure? dunno wot else it could be, coz if its the fork i'd think it would remain stuck if it bent and wont return back to normal position once clutch is released

Cliff you really jumped in the deepest end on day one. ! lol

I fully agree with Olo! check for leaks once again and also the oil level.

- OR -

I would have another go with bleading. On a second taught, once the pedal is 'pumped' ie not kept depressed everything works fine. When it is depressed the pressure is exserted on the tiny air bubbles rather then the piston. This happened to me once (with brakes) and I did sort it out with another bleading ritual.

[LEW153]

Oil level looks ok. I could try re-bleeding the system.


A mechanic suggested it could be the pressure plate so 99% I'll end up pulling out the gearbox off the engine, to replace the pressure plate. Once I'm at it I'll change the clutch and trust bearing. The only thing I'm worried about is the clutch alignment. Anyone ever did such a job?

As one of you mates said, I was welcomed to the world of the green oval, as I've already done quite a few jobs on it. Well if it wasn't that way, owning an LR would be boring ;)

I'll keep you updated. Any hints or technical references are greatly appreciated.

[tdi200]

For clutch alignment find or borrow an old input shaft and use that. But i would check well before embarking in a clutch replacement project. Is your mechanic familiar with landrovers??? Tell your mechanic that it probably is not the pressure plate! I am just guessing here but from what you are saying and my experiance, it seems the master is the culprit if there are no visible leaks

The clutch disengages and then the vehicle starts to move although the pedal is depressed, right?????? That can only mean the the slave is releasing the pressure slowly hence indicating an internal leak within the master if no leaks are found. Dismantle and re-kit or buy a new one.

The only thing that is liable to fail is the release bearing IMO, which could have melted or siezed thus playing up, pressure plates usually seem to judder and make all sorts of quirky things before failing and making the vehicle pretty undrivable. The fork will never fail as its a solid cast metal affair.

Grem

[landymaniac]

also check that your oils seals and cylinders take hydraulic DOT 4. As far as i know those seals take DOT 3.

kif failing the clutch???? reverse does not engage? you know reverse is not synchromeshed and it is suggested to engaged 3rd gear before engaging reverse .

suppost if first is ok reverse is ok to. they're the same gear.

[theBaptist]

reverse and first same gear ? :rolleyes:

naf li jien novice hdejk steve imma femili naqa din ta - qas ir ratios nahseb muma l-istess kif l-istess gear ?? :confused:

[buzz]

I don't know if it has anything to do with it but, One time I was with Daniel and we were bleeding his clutch. It took him ages until he remembered that eventually, even after bleeding, the thing needed to settle on its own?

Issa ma nafx if it is something normal and needs to be run and settle on its own? Boq it sounded weird when I heard about it.

[LEW153]

Hi all,

The problem arises when I come to disengage a gear, especially when I'm parking the LR. I put in reverse gear, (all's fine up till there) I keep the clutch slightly pressed and reverse slowly. When I want to make the LR stop I fully depress the clutch pedal and brake pedal but the engine would still be delivering power to the wheels. If I try to disengage the gear lever, it wont let me as it would feel as if stuck (probably due to the pressure being applied by the engine on the gears acting against the wheels). I switch off the engine, release and depress the clutch and shift the gearbox to neutral (free).

The oil I'm using is DOT 4 although the manual says it should be DOT 3. I was told that if it's DOT 4, it implicitly is DOT 3 compliant.

Thanks for your help.

[LEW153]

By the way, I forgot to mention that I replaced the slave cylinder, bought original pipes (both the iron and flexible piping) and also cleaned the Master cylinder and fitted it with a set of new oil seals.

Thanks once again.

[landymaniac]

i think you need to set the fork of the slave cylinder. qed jaqta isfel nahseb il clutch hux? trid itawal il fork nahseb. jek ma itikx isetja naqra il master ukoll.

is this problem only on reverse gear? buuuq ma nufx man

hmmmm i'm thinking. are you sure the gear lever is functioning 100%. is it ok when the engine is off? does it engages all gears bla glied

[tdi200]

reverse and first same gear ? :rolleyes:

naf li jien novice hdejk steve imma femili naqa din ta - qas ir ratios nahseb muma l-istess kif l-istess gear ?? :confused:

What he means is that they use the same teeth but via a 3rd idler gear which is the reverse. Jekk fhimt hekk!

Grem

[LEW153]

Clutch problem solved...finally. LR working fine, apart from the 4WD Low transmission. I should be addressing the latter this week.

Thanks to all for the info provided ;)

[olo]

so it means we got to wait till next week to see wot else will crop up on the list? :p

[tdi300]

Thats bad Lew........cause now we will not have new threads with your land rover working as it should.

Well Done clif !

btw Cliff you need the low gear a lot :rolleyes:

[olo]

sshhh dont tell him that or he'll leave it garaged for the next week :p